Frequently Asked Questions

Closed-cell foam, rated R-5 to R-7 per inch in HomeGuide's guide, against R-3.5 to R-3.7 for open-cell. Total R-value depends on thickness, so a good quote lists both.

Contractors often price foam by the board foot, one square foot one inch thick. HomeGuide's installed prices of $3.00 to $5.00 per square foot for closed-cell assume a typical thickness. Your written estimate will list thickness and price per area.

Foam does not feed mold, but trapped moisture behind any insulation can cause problems. We fix leaks first and choose the foam type with moisture in mind.

Nolan County is in Climate Zone 3. The 2015 code table Texas uses lists R-38 for ceilings, and ENERGY STAR suggests R-49 for a bare existing attic.

It helps a lot. Most dust gets in through the same gaps that leak air, especially around the attic, plumbing and windows.

Yes. Closed-cell foam on the steel is the usual choice for walls and roof, sized to how the building is used.

Yes. Foam stops air movement through gaps, which is a big part of what makes a house uncomfortable on windy days.

Open-cell is the common choice for roof decks in homes with attic ducts. Closed-cell is used where space is tight or moisture is a concern.

Properly installed foam does not settle or sag, so it keeps its thickness for the life of the building in normal conditions.

HomeGuide suggests 24 hours or more while foam cures. We confirm the timing for your job.

Yes. Closed-cell foam keeps moist air away from the cold steel, which is what causes the drip.

Usually the old faced fiberglass has to come down so foam can bond to the steel.

Yes. We foam the steel shell and can insulate the interior living space.

It depends on use. Stopping drip takes less than a fully conditioned shop. The quote lists thickness.

Dust rides in on air leaking through gaps in the ceiling, walls and floor. Sealing the attic floor usually helps the most.

In Zone 3, R-38 is the code figure for new ceilings and R-49 is ENERGY STAR's target for a bare existing attic.

Yes, if it is dry and clean. We seal first where we can reach.

Most attic jobs are done in a day.

The 2015 code table lists R-19 for floors in Zone 3, and ENERGY STAR suggests R-19 for floors in existing Zone 3 homes.

It can leave pipes on the cold side, so we recommend pipe insulation or protection where needed.

Foam seals air and does not sag, but costs more. Batts can work with good supports and an air barrier.

We check access first. Some spaces need extra prep or a different method.

Both work in a sealed attic. Cellulose is denser; fiberglass settles less. We recommend one for your attic.

Cellulose settles some, and depth is set to allow for it. Fiberglass settles very little.

Yes, dense-pack through small holes that are patched afterward.

Usually a day for an attic.

Only if it is wet, contaminated or badly damaged.

The vacuum hose runs outside, and we cover floors and the path to the attic.

They come out with the insulation. Get entry points fixed so they do not come back.

Not before testing. Asbestos-containing material goes to a licensed abatement contractor.